There are races you run for time or a goal, and then there are races you run for the experience. The Midnight Sun Marathon in Tromsø, Norway, falls firmly into the latter. It had been on my “run it” list for over a decade. I’d already checked Norway off my #MoniqueRuns50 country goal with a stop in Oslo, so this race was all about the experience.
So how does a girl who hates the cold end up running through what looked and felt like winter…in the middle of summer? Let me explain.
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The Long Road to Tromsø
Tromsø (pronounced Trom-SUH) is located at 69° north, about 350 km above the Arctic Circle. It’s known as “The Gateway to the Arctic” and lives up to the name, remote, majestic, and difficult to reach. The first time I looked into running the Midnight Sun Marathon, it was so expensive and tedious to plan that I gave up and went to Iceland instead.
But this year, the stars – and flights – finally aligned.
I landed in Tromsø in mid-June to find snow still clinging to the mountain peaks and temperatures hovering in the 50s. Yes, in June. Make it make sense. Despite the chill, I was immediately struck by how beautiful and peaceful the city felt. It reminded me of Reykjavik: crisp Arctic air, sweeping fjord views, and clusters of charming wooden buildings. Even the iconic Arctic Cathedral brought to mind Hallgrímskirkja with its dramatic, modern lines reaching toward the sky.
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Exploring the City Before the Race
I checked into the Radisson Blu, which felt like the Scandinavian version of a Holiday Inn, nothing fancy, but clean, convenient, and it came with a Nespresso machine, so no complaints here.
The next day, I joined a walking tour that happened to be mostly other people running the race, which gave me the perfect opportunity to get my bearings and learn more about this small but fascinating Arctic city. Here are a few fun facts that stood out:
Pre-Race Dinner & Inspiring Connections
Bib pickup was quick and easy, leaving me plenty of time to rest before the pre-race dinner. There, I connected with a friend of a friend and ended up sitting next to a wonderfully adventurous couple. The woman, an ultramarathoner, had won a multi-day race in Mongolia (!), and her husband, who’s at least 80, still runs half marathons and has completed races on all seven continents. They even did Antarctica with the same tour company I’m registered with. When I asked whether I should run the half or the full, he didn’t hesitate: “Do the full.” I smiled, nodded, and while I briefly considered taking his advice, I knew deep down I’d probably stick with the half.
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Race Day – Let There Be Light (All Day Long)
Race Day – Let There Be Light (All Day Long)With the race starting at night, I had all day to fill before the race. That’s always a tricky part of night races, you’re not quite sure how to fuel or nap. It reminded me of Rock ‘n’ Roll Vegas, which takes place on the Vegas Strip at night.
I spent race day visiting the Arctic Cathedral, riding the cable car for panoramic views, and grabbing lunch before heading back to the hotel to rest and stretch.
The Midnight Sun Marathon is a relatively small event, with around 6,000 runners across five different race distances, but it’s impressively international, drawing participants from over 80 countries.
The marathon started at 8:30 p.m., and the half marathon kicked off at 9:00 p.m. The course starts and finishes in Tromsø’s city center. About 1.5 miles in, we tackled the Tromsø Bridge, which climbs from 19 to 140 feet (6 to 43 meters). My legs were not amused, but the view at the top was more than worth it, with the Arctic Cathedral glowing in the late sun, and the sea and mountains stretching out beyond it.
The course then looped back through the city, crossed the bridge again, and transitioned into a flatter, faster second half. The crowd support was fantastic, the organization was seamless, and the weather? Perfect! If you’ve followed me for a while, you know I always have something to say about the weather, and this time, I have nothing but good things to report.
Post-race festivities included food, drinks, and music that carried on into the early hours beneath the glow of the midnight sun. As magical as it was, the constant daylight definitely disrupted my circadian rhythm.
At the finish line, my new friend from the pre-race dinner was waiting for me, and her friends, who had run the full marathon, crossed shortly after I did. I got to meet them too, and just like that, I had more new running friends.
My foot, specifically my pinky toe, which I’d injured a couple of months earlier during a half marathon, was… noticeable, but not painful. At the time, I didn’t know it had actually been broken (I’d find that out weeks later, after an X-ray showed the fracture had already healed). During the race, there was no swelling, just a subtle reminder that it still needed monitoring, and that post-race ice and elevation were probably a good idea.
Post-Race: A Scenic Day Trip to Senja from Tromsø
The next day, I booked a day trip to Senja from Tromsø. If you’re visiting Northern Norway, this trip is a must! Senja is Norway’s second-largest island, often called a “miniature Norway” because it combines so many of the country’s natural highlights into one compact destination. Think dramatic peaks, deep fjords, coastal cliffs, and postcard-perfect fishing villages.
The tour started with a scenic bus ride from Tromsø to Brensholmen, followed by a short ferry across to Botnhamn on Senja. Even the journey was breathtaking—coastal views, shimmering fjords, and the quiet, untouched beauty of Arctic Norway rolling past my window.
Once we arrived on Senja, the tour included several stops along the Senja National Tourist Route, known for its iconic viewpoints like Tungeneset and Bergsbotn. These platforms offer jaw-dropping panoramas of the surrounding mountains and sea, perfect for both reflection and Instagram.
We also saw Segla Mountain, one of the most photographed peaks in Norway, and visited a few charming fishing villages that gave a glimpse into the island’s traditional way of life.
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Lunch was included with the tour, and we were treated to delicious local Arctic fare: creamy fish soup, followed by Norwegian waffles for dessert. Simple, comforting, and perfect after hours of soaking up fresh air and scenery.
If you’re planning your itinerary, I recommend setting aside a full day for this Senja excursion from Tromsø; it’s an unforgettable way to experience the Arctic landscape beyond the city.
Final Thoughts: 5 Suns Out of 5
The Midnight Sun Marathon is one of the most unique and magical running experiences I’ve ever had. There’s something surreal about running a race that starts at night but never gets dark. The air is crisp, the scenery spectacular, and the energy unforgettable.
If you’re a runner who loves adventure, put this one on your list. Tromsø may be hard to get to, but once you arrive, it feels like the top of the world (and you kinda are). It’s like pure Arctic magic under an endless golden sky.
Tromsø Travel Tips for Future MSM Runners
Planning to run it yourself? Here’s what you need to know: everything from transportation to what to eat, pack, and do between race events.
Airport Shuttle:
Buy in advance at BestArctic.com or onboard (~125 NOK / €11 / $12). It’s easy, efficient, and cheaper than a taxi.
Where to Stay
Stay near the city center for easy access to the expo, race start/finish, restaurants, and most sights.
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Radisson Blu Tromsø – Reliable, central, and popular with runners
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Clarion Hotel The Edge – Modern, stylish, and steps from the harbor
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Thon Hotel Tromsø – Comfortable, well-located, and budget-friendly
All are race-friendly options that put you within walking distance of the action.
Where to Eat & Drink
- Kaffebønna – Excellent coffee and pastries, owned by a local who lived in London
- Svermeri Café – TripAdvisor’s top pick for fish soup (near the marathon statue)
- Raketten – The “tiniest bar in the universe” serving reindeer hot dogs, beer, aquavit, and gløgg
- Graffi Grill – Upscale casual, great for ribs, cocktails, and pre-race carbs
What to Do in Tromsø
- Ride the Fjellheisen Cable Car for sweeping views of Tromsø and the fjords
- Attend a midnight sun concert at the Arctic Cathedral (June–July)
- Explore Magic Ice Bar (look for the 10% discount code)
- Visit top museums:
- The Polar Museum – Focused on Arctic expeditions and trapping history
- Tromsø University Museum – Covers Sami culture, Northern Lights, and Arctic ecology
- Troll Museum – A fun, interactive dive into Nordic myths and folklore
- Take a day trip to Senja or a fjord cruise to explore Arctic Norway beyond the city
What to Pack
While it’s technically summer, it’s still the Arctic, so get those jackets, gloves, and other layers, and button up, Buttercup.
Must-haves:
- Lightweight down jacket or thermal outer layer
- Gloves and a beanie (especially for evenings or the post-race walk home)
- Long-sleeve base layers and running tights
- Sunglasses and sunscreen (24-hour sun is no joke!)
- Eye mask if you’re sensitive to light while sleeping (because, again, 24-hour sun is no joke, even with the hotel’s blackout curtains)
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